Somehow I never bought a case for my laptop. I didn´t want the usual uni colour zipper case, so when I started sewing my bag set, I decided to try sewing a laptop bag as well. Using fleece is quite important in this pattern, since, apart from adding „boxiness“ to the bag, it also protects your laptop.
The bag has two fabric handles and one adjustable strap from faux leather. With its three inserted pockets, there is enough room for any additional hardware, notes and personal things.
As always, if there are any questions left, please drop me a line in the comments/write me a message. Please send me photos of your version of the pattern – I will post them beneath the instructions
– 2 times 34x49cm of fabric, lining, interfacing, (fusible) fleece for the main body
-2 times 10,5x49cm of faux leather for the main body
– 1 time 70x12cm of faux leather for the bottom and sides
-2 times 14,5x12cm of fabric for the sides
-2 times 79x7cm of fabric, lining, interfacing and (fusible) fleece for the top
– 1 time 93x12cm of lining, interfacing and (fusible) fleece for the bottom and sides
– 1 time 24x49cm of lining for the inner pocket
– 1 time 1,60m x 14,8cm of faux leather for the adjustable strap
-1 time 1,50m x 1,9cm of fleece for the adjustable strap
– 4 times 8×12 cm for the side straps
– 2 times 31x10cm of fabric for the handles
– 2,10m of piping cord and satin binding (3cm wide)
– 80cm zip
– 2 D-Rings, around 3,8cm wide at the straight side
– 1 Metal-slider, around 3,8cm wide
All seam allowances are 1,5cm unless stated otherwise.
There are a lot of different pieces, so I recommend labelling the different parts with tailor´s chalk/ removable marker.
1. Press the interfacing and fusible fleece to the matching fabric pieces. Press the interfacing and fusible fleece for the bottom and sides to the lining.
2. Take one faux leather piece for the main body WSU and fold in 1,5cm at one long edge.
3. Put them RSU on the fabric pieces for the main body, also facing RSU. Match the bottom and side edges and stitch them with a 1cm seam allowance. Topstitch the folded edge with a 1-2mm seam allowance.
4. Take the lining piece for the inserted pocket and fold in one of the long sides 1cm two times. Press and topstitch. Match its bottom and side edges RSU with the bottom and side edges of one of the lining main body pieces RSU. Sew around the raw edges. Make one more seam 15,5 cm away and parallel to one of the side seams. You made two pockets.
5. Take the fabric pieces for the sides. Match each with a short end of the faux leather piece for bottom and sides, RST. You should now have a fabric – faux leather – fabric strap
6. Take one piece for the side straps. Fold it lengthways and press the crease. Open it again and fold the long edges to the center crease. Press again. Fold the strip at the center crease, press it again and topstitch both long edges. Repeat with the other 3 pieces.
7. Take one of the fabric pieces for the top WSU. Fold in 1,5cm on one long side and press. Repeat with the other piece. Repeat with the lining.
8. Next one is kind of tricky. Thread a D-Ring on two short straps (one D-Ring on two short straps, to avoid misunderstandings) and fold them in half. Take one end of your fabric – faux leather – fabric strap and match the raw edges of the short straps with the raw edges of the fabric – faux leather – fabric strap. Place each short strap 0,5cm away from the center of the fabric´s raw edge. Stitch them in place with a 0,5 cm seam allowance. Now place the fabric pieces for the top on the short straps, its folded edge matching with the long edges of the short straps and stitch with 1,5cm seam allowance:
Match the raw edges of the short strap/side piece with the raw edges of the top pieces
Repeat with the other end of the fabric – faux leather – fabric strap.
You have got a fabric – faux leather loop.
9. Match the lining piece for the bottom and sides to the lining top pieces the same way like in step 8 (without the short straps)
10. Fold your satin binding in half lengthways (without creating a crease) and put the piping cord between the layers. Using your zipper /piping foot, stitch about 3mm away from the cord.
11. Pin and stitch the piping to the main body fabric pieces. The piping seam should be about 2mm outside the 1,5cm seam allowance line, with the piping facing to the center of the fabric piece. Stitch with your zipper/ piping foot. Repeat with the other fabric piece for the main body.
12. Pin one of the fabric body pieces RST with the fabric – faux leather loop, the piping between them. The faux leather is at the bottom, and the top pieces – well, at the top 😉 Try to pin symmetrically, otherwise the faux leather of one side will be much longer than on the other side. Using your zipper/piping foot stitch around all edges with a 1,5cm seam allowance, the piping between both fabric layers. Repeat with the other fabric piece for the main body.
Repeat with the lining (without the mentioning of faux leather and piping)
13. Take one of the handle pieces WSU and fold in 1cm on both short edges. Then follow step 6, but topstitch on all edges. Repeat with the other handle piece.
14. Place the handles on the main body, each end 15cm away from the piping at the sides and 2cm bellow the piping at the top. Topstitch the short edge, and the sides to the main body, but stop 3mm bellow the piping and connect both side seams with another seam – you should have a box shape now. Repeat with the other end. Repeat with the other handle.
15. With the fabric bag RSO and the lining bag WSO, put the lining bag into the fabric bag. Match the edges and pin the zip to the folded edge of the fabric. Then pin again to attach it to the lining, too, but be careful that you leave at least 3-4mm space between the zipper teeth and the lining to prevent it getting stuck when using the zipper. Try to open/ close the zipper after pinning for being on the safe side. Using your zipper foot, stitch through all three layers. I sewed it in as a visible zipper, because I found it suiting to the whole design of the bag. If you find invisible zippers more appropriate, feel free to sew it in that way
16. Take the piece for the adjustable strap. Follow step 13 and then step 6. Thread it through the centre bar of the slider and pull it through about 4-5cm. Fold it back and stitch it down. Take the free end, thread it through one of the D-rings attached to the bag, and then again around the central bar of the slider and then through the other D-Ring. Fold this end back for 4-5cm also and stitch down.